A PROTECT BAY: NOBODY BUILT A HOTEL ON IT. To find the quieter Amalfi, you eventually have to leave the table and take to the land. The hike to the Baia di Ieranto begins in the village of Nerano, a frazione of Massa Lubrense. Look for the sign marked "VIA IERANTO" on the right side of the road leading to Marina del Cantone: a 30-minute drive from Sorrento (or a boat ride from Positano), and the road alone filters out anyone who isn't genuinely committed. Beyond Amalfi Beach Clubs: A Descent into Nerano and the Bay of Ieranto | Dolcevia

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